This has a been a recurring problem for me, and I have no idea what parameters are causing this. Often times, when there is a vertical wall, these patterns will appear, often in the exact same spot for the same print, so its likely a slicer-side problem. Also, no pattern will appear on the opposite, but mirrored side. It seems to stem from the fact that one layer will have gaps in the wall, and then for the next layer, material can only be deposited on top of that same spot. Does anyone have any idea what settings I can change to get rid of this problem?

Weird patterns on side of print

Weird patterns on side of print

Weird patterns on side of print


June 9, 2019

Protolate Protolate
Beginner
2 posts

8 replies


This is the pattern you get with persistent underextrusion. The cause can be a partial clog, in that case your extuder is clicking periodically and you can see the cog skipping back. The filament can slip in the extruder because of not enough grip, then you get no clicking. Or can be simply badly set up slicer, for example when you do not set up the filament diameter correctly.

June 9, 2019

psanyi psanyi
Exalted
949 posts

It also could be an issue with your stepper motors. See this blog page for details about this: Smoothing Stepper Motor Movement

June 11, 2019

Birk Binnard Birk Binnard
Exalted
705 posts

I have a similar problem on the CB3. At first I thought it was an extruder problem. It wasn't. Then there is the old "clogged nozzle" since the CB3 measures that and claims its clogged. It wasn't. Then I thought maybe the ribbon cable was faulty because the problem always occurred on the far corner of the print. But I don't think that is the problem either.

So that leaves Craftware or the firemware. I suspect the firmware is having some problems converting gcode to movements under some circumstances. Don't know but we will see.

June 12, 2019

Allen67 Allen67
Beginner
36 posts

If you have a precise scale, you should weigh the part and compare it with the weight it should be given the amount of filament in it. I'm guessing it is way lighter. Google for "100g jewelry scale" to see what I mean.

June 13, 2019

psanyi psanyi
Exalted
949 posts

I think I and everyone here assumed this was some type of hardware problem. IT ISN'T. First, maybe it was the extruder not working well. Nope. Then I thought it was the ribbon cable maybe disconnecting because this was occurring when it was stretched. NOPE. I did lots of troubleshooting and its not that.

So there is only two things that might be causing it for me, Craftware or the printer firmware. In a day or so I will know which. I strongly suspect, a firmware problem.

I have been doing testing printing the same model multiple times, and the defects are the same at the same point in the model, every time. I've looked at them with high magnification. The CB3 also has a filament monitoring system that seems to detect "nozzle clogs" at the exact same time in a print over and over. I have videos showing this. I highly doubt that a nozzle would clog EXACTLY at the same time over and over. And maybe 30 or 40 clogs during a print? Each time the Craftbot can magically clear these "clogs."

So I would not get to occupied with trying to solve a hardware problem, because at least on my printer, its clearly a software/firmware problem.

UPDATE: After a bunch of printing using Simplfy3D, I am now very certain that the print quality problems I was having were due to Craftware, NOT the Craftbot 3's firmware. If you are having print quality problems, try a different slicer.

Not only was the Craftware gCode causing quality problems (and on a Mac when it even runs) the gCode was also triggering the CB3 filament monitor to "detect" a clogged extruder that was never clogged. This would occur OVER and OVER. With the Simplify3D version, not one clogged nozzle problem on the whole print, like I would expect.

Maybe instead of producing Craftware, maybe CU could spend some time making profiles for other slicers. Just a thought.

June 13, 2019

Allen67 Allen67
Beginner
36 posts

Try a different slicer and report back if that doesn't solve your problems. I've printed things in Craftware and then Simplify3D, and the difference is night and day.

June 14, 2019

Allen67 Allen67
Beginner
36 posts

I always love the Trump style believes that with some unexpected result it must be the slicer, firmware or Iranian Revolutionary Guard.
It isn't! It's you or some bias you pushed yourself in somehow.
Otherwise this forum would be flooded with the same kind of findings. As it isn't, the problem is you, your education, or the fact you are born in the USA.
Unless some crazy bug, surely to be solved very fast, it's never the slicer. You can slice and 3Dprint with all available slicers very nicely. Of course all slicers have a different approach. So with CraftWare you can slice and print 99% of the models nicely. And with KISSlicer you can use dynamic layer height and great support generation. With Simplify3d you can print dual, but not great. Although people loving to work with protcols love S3D very vast. The Vase mode of S3d is great though. With Slic3r you can attack the most slice problems and you have various surfaces at your hand. And with Cura, well, you must have an Ultimaker, as they are the enemy. But still, you can get a descent print and even use the great 'wire mode' nobody else has.
at the same level and quality.

But what all slicers have in common: they can slice and print simple objects

And Craftunique shouldn't produce profiles for other slicers. Why should they? craftWare works fine over all. Ultimaker isn't making profiles for the CraftBot either.
Nevertheless: others do, as I did. I have profiles available for S3D, CraftWare and KISSlicer. And for older versions for Cura and Slic3r as well.

And because of that and testing all main stream slicers, I'm pretty sure you can get the same great results for ordinary objects with all slicers. Only for extreme objects of effects you have to switch to another slicer.

As for your result, it's either underextrusion as Psanyi suggested. But you can get a wave pattern as well by over extrusion.
Of course loose timing belts and pulleys are not making the result better.

The base of a good print is by measuring the filament with a calliper in different directions and spots. And to put that number in the slicer. The flow adjust of 90% of S3d is just a joke. If that is what it needs, they use another calculation method than common for the wanted amount filament to spit out.
Also the minimum temp the filament wiull be processed has to be found out. That temp plus 10 degrees will reduce stringing and +20 will improve layer binding.

Nevertheless, if you really ant to have feedback, you should post your model, the used profile and the filament used. Than you surely get an educated advice.
If you can't post that settings ea, you can email it to me: info@craftbot.nl (not the manufacturer, just a grumpy reseller).
Bart


.

June 21, 2019

Bartaar Bartaar
Service partner
1663 posts

printing in 3D is empirical, it is through errors that you learn to fully understand, adjust and use your machine. With this list you should be able to solve the main errors walgreenslistens

June 24, 2019

Sergio76 Sergio76
Beginner
1 posts
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