Hi

I' had to print a cake shape for my friend. I just started to use PETG filament from eSUN China.
With smaller parts I had no problem but in this situation:
PETG heavy warping

eSUN gave properties:
Print temperature:230~250℃
Plate temperature:80~90℃ or without heated
Printing speed:30~60mm/s
Moving speed:30~60mm/s

I'm printing at 245C, 75C bed with glue
40mm/s speed
All fan on.

What should I do for avoid this horrible warping

Thank You

February 24, 2015

SzKrisz SzKrisz
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182 posts

23 replies


I've been using PETG from a different manufacturer and have been finding bed adhesion is nowhere near as good as PLA also.
I haven't tried any massive prints but I found that bed adhesion gets much better as you increase the temperature. I did my last few prints with the bed at 85C and the grip was a lot better.
I'm using glue also. It's PVA glue diluted 10:1 with water.

February 24, 2015

CorEire CorEire
Honored
257 posts

Thank you.
I will try to reach 85C next time.
Also I will look for this pva glue in Hungary.

What do you think about doing some heating in a cook? Just around 100C?
Will it flat a bit or no chance to fix it?

February 24, 2015

SzKrisz SzKrisz
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182 posts

PVA glue is just white "elmers school glue" right?

February 24, 2015

Bixit219 Bixit219
Superstar
1448 posts

I used that glue. Office Depot paper glue.

February 24, 2015

SzKrisz SzKrisz
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182 posts

SzKrisz wrote:Thank you.
I will try to reach 85C next time.
Also I will look for this pva glue in Hungary.

What do you think about doing some heating in a cook? Just around 100C?
Will it flat a bit or no chance to fix it?

You could try doing that with some weight/pressure down on the corners and then letting it cool in that position, but I'm guessing the rest of the print will probably deform when you get it hot enough to straighten. If you do try let me know how it works out, could be a handy trick if it works.


Bixit219 wrote:PVA glue is just white "elmers school glue" right?


Ya, just white glue for paper/card etc. White liquid rather that in a stick.

February 24, 2015

CorEire CorEire
Honored
257 posts

Tomorrow I will do the cooking ;)

February 24, 2015

SzKrisz SzKrisz
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182 posts

I can say the owen is working. Not needed to heat up to 100C 70-80C was far enough to bend it down to the desk by pushing with hand.

PETG heavy warping

PETG heavy warping

February 25, 2015

SzKrisz SzKrisz
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182 posts

Great, might be a way to somewhat save large prints that go wrong. Did the reheating cause any problems anywhere else on the print?

February 25, 2015

CorEire CorEire
Honored
257 posts

i found that if i do not clean the bed with some sort of alcohol any prints after do not stick.

i do not use glue at all, just a clean bed and good calibration of course.

February 25, 2015

Inscriptu Inscriptu
Beginner
15 posts

Fan off?

February 25, 2015

fmotta fmotta
Revered
649 posts

Craftware defaults, looks like it is off on 1st layer.

February 25, 2015

Inscriptu Inscriptu
Beginner
15 posts


Inscriptu wrote:Craftware defaults, looks like it is off on 1st layer.

Turn it off the whole time - that is what I use for colorfabb-Xt

February 25, 2015

fmotta fmotta
Revered
649 posts

fmotta wrote:
Turn it off the whole time - that is what I use for colorfabb-Xt


I turn the fan off all the time for PETG also. I found that if it's on, it results in little hairs on the surface that eventually stick to the nozzle and end up as a ball of plastic.

February 26, 2015

CorEire CorEire
Honored
257 posts

I think you can use more brim lines for adhesion. I was having the worst time trying to print this exacto knife like part and I just could not print that darn thing no matter how I did it until I added about 10 lines of brim and it printed upright with no problem. So if you're getting that either use a larger brim or mesh. I prefer the brim because you can just trim it. A mesh is probably harder if not impossible to get rid of, but I have not printed anything large enough to test that out.

Also, if you just want to heat up something like this, you may want to try and just use a heat gun which would be faster and easier to use than a whole oven which is what I'm guessing you are referring to.

February 26, 2015

Jaime Vigil Jaime Vigil
Exalted
749 posts

Thank you guys for the help.

Ok I will turn the fan off next time.

Also I will raise the bed heat to 85-90C
I also clean the bed after every print with alcohol and acetone.

There was no other problem with the object during and after the heating.
PETG is a very clever material :)

I'm afraid of the heart gun because an accidental damage of the object. And I have no heat gun :)
Oven yes I know now :-D

Next time I have to make a knife handle I try out the brim

thx again

February 26, 2015

SzKrisz SzKrisz
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182 posts

I don't know where you are but they're cheap and safe. Just do it outside. Plus you won't waste as much energy and it will be fast depending on how fast/hot you want it. Also depends on the two or three settings it has and how far you are from the part. They do heat up fast so it may also be faster, but I guess it depends on how big the part is too. Plus these have many uses so you'll use it over again later for something else. Good to have.
http://www.harborfreight.com/catalogsearch/result?q=heat+gun

February 26, 2015

Jaime Vigil Jaime Vigil
Exalted
749 posts

Ok Jaime I will buy one :)
I have some circuits to disassemble anyway ;-D

February 26, 2015

SzKrisz SzKrisz
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182 posts

You don't have to, but it was just a suggestion. I had one for a very long time and comes in handy every now and then, so I thought I mention it to you. Unfortunately I lost the rest of the parts that came with it, but they have the accessory kit which is nice, but then again I haven't had a need for anything other than the flat tip I have on it. The link I posted is just an example as you can get buy them almost anywhere.

February 26, 2015

Jaime Vigil Jaime Vigil
Exalted
749 posts

As I needed to print a large object with a higher Glass Transition temperature than PLA, I ended with PETG, but I hadn't any warping.
The object is 150mm in diameter and 195mm height.
http://www.craftunique.com/forums/view-thread/988

The settings I used:
250 degrees Extruder, 100 degrees HPB.
0.6mm destringing @40mm/s
Print speed: perimeter 60mm/s and the rest 80mm/s
I used REAL PETG from RRW, I have set the diameter @ 1.65mm

I have insulated the printbed to be able to reach 100 degrees. I closed the front of the CraftBot with Perspex to avoid unexpected air flow. I exchanged the alumnium bed with 4mm glass and I use Hairspray to stick the print to the bed.

I hope this helps you too.
Bart





June 17, 2015

Bartaar Bartaar
Service partner
1664 posts

PETG is a lot lower friction than PLA and also slightly more flexible, which results in higher curling on the first layers. If you want any hope of not using some type of interface material you should use brim, I think craftware has a setting for it, it extends a skirt along the first layer of the print so it has more surface area to stick.

Easier solution is just to use a thin layer of glue. A lot of people use glue sticks, elmer's glue, or ABS slurry. I use E6000 glue since I have lots of it laying around that I use for other projects. It sticks well with a super thin layer spread out with a qtip, and you can remove it afterwards from the build plate by just rubbing it a little.

June 18, 2015

Stan V Stan V
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96 posts

Hi Stan

Thank You for the advice. It's been a long time since this wapring happened. I made a lot of "cake shape" :) I could manage the problem with:
-replacing the bed with glass,
-slowing down the first layer print speed
-heat the bed to 95C (insulation needed)

June 18, 2015

SzKrisz SzKrisz
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182 posts

Hi SzKrisz,

There's information here on PETG.

https://rigid.ink/blogs/news/175700615-petg-filament-heres-what-you-need-to-know

Cheers,

L

August 11, 2016

Lisha Lisha
Beginner
1 posts

Hi Lisha

Thank you for the information I will check it out.

It was a long time ago and thank to CU and glass bed my problems went away.
However the link is usefull :)

August 12, 2016

SzKrisz SzKrisz
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182 posts
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